Knowledge of Setting Various Fibers
I. Nylon Greige Fabric
1. Setting temperature: 160℃-180℃. Speed: 20M-25M/min.
2. Setting temperature greatly affects color, especially purple and light blue. Therefore, pay attention to whether the color of the finished product is the same as the original.
3. The shrinkage rate of nylon fabric varies depending on its thickness.
4. Nylon fabric is prone to snagging during setting. If a snag occurs along a continuous line, stop the machine immediately and check the machine head and tail, bellows, and rollers. Sand the area with sandpaper or add padding. (Similar to nylon stockings and mesh fabrics.)
II. Polyester Fabric Setting
1. Setting Temperature: 170℃-200℃, Speed: 20M-28M/min
2. Polyester setting temperature generally doesn't vary much, but the sublimation fastness of bright red dye is poor, leaving dye residue on the machine after setting. Light colors cannot be produced immediately; only black can be produced. Alternatively, waste fabric can be run through the machine several times to achieve lighter colors.
3. Polyester stretch fabric has a high shrinkage rate. If the customer requires good elasticity, low shrinkage, and a good hand feel, the greige fabric must be pre-set to a fixed state, paying special attention to black and white. For red and white floral patterns, due to the poor dye sublimation fastness, the finished product must be set at a low temperature; high temperatures will severely stain the product.
4. When setting polyester fabric, pay attention to the thickness difference between the center and edges. The temperature must be well controlled and not too high. Reduce the machine speed and set in two stages. Setting in two stages can reduce the thickness difference between the center and edges. The first setting should result in a width approximately 6-8 inches smaller than the finished product, and a weight increase of about 100g. The second setting should be done at a temperature 5-10 degrees Celsius lower than the first. Width and weight should be as required.
III. Cotton Rayon
1. Setting temperature: 160℃-190℃, speed: 20-30m/min
2. If cotton fabric is dyed with direct dyes, the color of the greige fabric changes significantly with temperature. Color matching must be done only after the greige fabric has completely cooled. Reactive dyes show less change.
3. Rayon is prone to aging at high temperatures, and burning the greige fabric can easily cause snagging and tearing.
4. Pure cotton has a high shrinkage rate. During setting, the fabric tension should be reduced, the press pressure increased to dry the fabric, the hot air blower should be turned to maximum, and the machine speed reduced to decrease shrinkage. If the customer has high requirements, a shrinkage test should be performed.
5. If the customer requires an unwanted twisted weave on the fabric surface, a twill weave setting is necessary.
IV. Silk Setting
1. Setting temperature: 100℃-120℃, speed: 20M-30M/min
2. Reduce hot air pressure during silk setting, ensuring the fabric width is evenly distributed.
3. Silk is delicate; avoid contact with water and sweat during setting, and do not apply excessive force when pulling the fabric.
V. PU Adhesive Setting
1. Imported paste: does not change color at high temperatures, 140℃-180℃, speed 25M-30M/min, produces a lot of smoke.
2. Domestic paste: easily changes color at high temperatures, 140℃-180℃, speed 25M-30M/min, produces a lot of smoke.
VI. Weight and Width
1. Always measure the weight and width before setting. If there is a significant difference from the requirements, report it to the order follow-up department immediately.
2. During setting, ensure the weight difference between the center and edges is not too large, and the difference between individual sheets should not be too large.
3. When shaping, pay attention to whether the front, middle and back widths of a piece of fabric are the same.
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